Any good performer knows you have to play to the crowd. Ham it up and you risk alienating your audience; play it straight and you could put them to sleep. The balance is easy to strike in the hipper parts of town, where Instagram can have as much say in menu planning as individual palate. It’s not so easy on West Anderson – a booming area but a booming area with parking.
There, Fork Vine caters to a clientele that
is perhaps not so taken with gimmicky presen-
tations or the latest “it” ingredient. They’re a
little bit older, certainly well heeled, and not particularly trendy (the neighbors include a silk plant shop, a Calico Corners, and a Bernina sewing center). To get a curtain call in this neighborhood, a restaurant has to do a little
more than screw in a few Edison bulbs and open their doors. Fork has